Border-crossing memories
I was catching up on some early episodes of This Week in Travel today at work. I think it was during episode 6 “Sex, Drugs, and Violence” that Gary from Everything-Everywhere mentioned security at Ben Gurion Airport. I was in Israel two years ago and flew in and out of Ben Gurion. I actually did not find the security at the airport as intimidating as crossing the Israeli/Jordanian border.
Crossing into and out of Jordan is probably on the top of my list as most-nerve racking travel moments Right underneath the border-crossing was the uber-bumpy flight from Bozeman, MT to Chicago…ah. It was so bumpy that the flight attendant actually came on the speaker & reminded us that if the oxygen masks dropped to breath normally..yah I cried when we landed. Anyway, we crossed at the Allenby Bridge/ King Hussein Bridge. The bridge is located in the West Bank just outside of Jericho and is the most direct crossing between Jerusalem and Amman.
When we arrived at the check-point on the Israeli side, we were instructed to get off the bus and go into the building to go through security while our luggage would be taken off and screened separately. As we started to get off the bus, we saw people running away from the building and someone shouted …”has a gun” – I’m not sure who had a gun or what that situation was about, but we all sat quietly in the bus until we were again instructed to leave the bus. Inside was a small waiting area and after our exit fees were paid, we lined up and slowly filed through passport checks. On the other side we found our luggage loaded into a new bus and our driver silently drove us across into Jordan.
It felt like an eternity crossing no-mans-land. Looking at the desolate landscape peppered with soliders & machine guns, I realized that this is still a sore spot for Israel and Jordan. Jordan doesn’t even recognize it as a border, only an entry point (I was disappointed not to have my passport stamped, but I did stick some Jordanian stamps as ‘proof’). When we arrive in Jordan the terminal had a completely different feel. There was tension but not like on the Israeli side…the tension was more of the unknown. The tension was not eased when the tour guide hopped on the bus asking for everyone to give him our passports. I’ve always been told ‘never give up your passport’ – but we reluctantly handed them over and sat in silence waiting for our guide to return. I later learned from a few Americans who frequently do business in Jordan that handling customs,etc is considered part of hospitality to Jordanians but they were nervous the first time their business associate took their passports. When our guide returned he was accompanied by an armed solider who joined us to and from Amman and on a couple short excursion. I have no clue what this soliders name is, but he was super cute if you ask me but he shy-ed away from pictures…but I snuck one!
I’m sure you’re wondering what about this was super nerve-racking, it was the return to Israel. Gary spoke today how one of the Israeli tactics is to intense questioning meant to trip up anyone who was hiding something. After crossing back into Israel, our bus parked in the lot and armed soliders circled our bus looking into the windows. After a few minutes, a couple of them boarded the bus and asked for passports (this actually happened a few times so I was too bothered yet) after asked for passports, the soliders left the bus and another solider got on, walked over to me and told me to take my bags and get off the bus.
When I got off the bus two soliders approached me, one guy and one girl. The girl went through my purse silently and handed the guy my camera. Then the questions started, questions that seems to be a no importance – how old am I, what was my birthdate, my zodiac sign, where was I born, in what year, where did I live, how long have I lived there and with who, what was my job, did I like it, how long did I work there, what year did I start, who was on this trip, why did I want to come, did I know any other languages, how much money did I make, where did I go to school, when did I graduate….and so on. They repeated most of the question multiple times. Then he went through my camera and questioned me about the locations, what day was I there, how did we get there, why did I take the picture. The entire time I was sort of scared to stare at him in face so I alternated between looking directly at him and staring at the poppyseed stuck in his teeth. I haven’t a clue how long I was out there, but when I got back on the bus people just stared at me but knew not to ask until after we left the area.
I don’t know why I was pulled off the bus…maybe I looked strange among a bus full of 50+ travelers. Whatever the reason, it doesn’t matter. It was an experience and as uncomfortable as it was, it was a unique experience and something I will always remember about my trip.